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By august of 98, I’d gotten the wheels painted and new titan tires mounted, final drive, bolster, engine, transmission, frame, etc painted and bolted back together. (I elect to paint each piece before assembly and periodically the whole tractor during assembly. It’s a quirk I’ve developed and it’s just the way I choose to do it. (I don’t think it’s the wrong way or the right way, It’s just my way) I use a HVLP (high volume, low-pressure) system with a non-bleeder cup. A bleeder cup is one that has air blowing out the nozzle even when your not spraying and if you set the gun down or move to a different position, it can and most times will stir up dust. Using the HVLP system allows me not to have to use my air compressor @ 40 pounds of pressure. Instead, I use the HVLP turbine and spray from 1-9 lb pressure, with very little bounce back (over spray). I regulate the amount of paint and air pressure mixture via two control knobs on the gun, which gives more control. I am not! an expert by any means, and in fact this is the first paint I’ve ever sprayed, but keep in mind I am used to spraying clear lacquer in my cabinet business, so I am comfortable holding and using a spray gun. Painting is not difficult, but it does take awareness of what you’re doing. Get over the fear of runs (sags). They can be redone. (They can be cut out, sanded and repainted without much of a problem.) The best advice I can give is to just shoot the shine! When your paint shines (starts to flash) stop! You’ve put on enough paint and giving it that one last coat will cause that sag. The other factor and even more important is the prep work. Any paint job is only as good as the prep! If you don’t take the time to do a good job (sanding, grinding, filling etc) you’ll have a poor paint job, no exceptions. The prep work will make or break the overall look of your pride and joy.
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